Halabajah

I have no idea where yesterday's blog went. Let's try again. :)

We have been so busy it's been hard to keep up with everything. On Wednesday we visited Halabajah. Halabajah lost 5,000 people in 5 minutes to the chemicals of Sadames regime. We visited a monument housing hundreds of photos of the aftermath and a three dimensional exhibit depicting the scene on a street just after the attacks. There were several Kurdish men and women walking with us explaining what we were seeing. One man pointed out a large photo on the wall and encouraged us to have a closer look. It was a truck with a bed full of dead Kurds, men, women, boys and girls. Beside the back of the truck stood a little boy looking completely lost. Through an interpeter and more hand signals he explained that the truck was filled with members of his family and he was the little boy.

For the majority of people I know, it's hard to imagine this kind of loss. You can read about it in the history books, but being here and seeing it first hand was sobering. I just kept thinking that 1988 was a good year. It was the year Myron and I got married. I felt guilty for having had such a happy year when I was oblivious to the horrors these people were suffering.

For the Gold Star moms, I think it was difficult to see, but it gave them comfort knowing their children died trying to prevent anything like this from ever happening again. For all of us, it made the horror of Saddam Hussein real. After visiting the monument we went to one of the cemetery's and laid flowers on a monument there.

Standing on the hill in the cemetery it was quiet and still. As you turned in a 360 degree circle you could see all the little houses or huts these people live in but before your eyes get to the houses, you see hundreds and thousands of headstones.

This is the saddest place I have ever visited.

ch

Work Day

Monday was a workday for everyone. All of the women met at a conference center to work on the humanitarian aid packs. There were women packing bags with hygiene items, and women making packets for the children. Some women were scattered about the room chatting and sewing on quilts or making beaded jewelry. What you hear is what makes this scene unusual: three different languages all being spoken at the same time. The room is filled with the Gold Star moms, the Kurdish women and the women from Baghdad, making the room a musical mixture of Arabic, Kurdish and English. It’s amazing how much communication can happen between the eyes and the hands. Everyone was helping each other, some of the Iraqi women speak both Kurdish and Arabic and are always there to help interpret, but they usually are not needed. When the words fail, the body language takes over, and it always works. Besides the sewing and packing there is lots of picture taking. The ANFAL Widows especially like to have their photos made with the Gold Star moms.

I have learned that the best tool of communication I have is my camera. Everyone loves the camera. They see it and strike a pose or wave or grin from ear to ear, but there is always a reaction. They are not a shy people.

Monday night we were treated to a quite a feast at a private palace. This trip is very important to the Iraqi people. They are welcoming these women with open arms and going out of their way to make sure they are treated with the utmost respect.

When you go to an important dinner in Iraq, you start out in a sitting room with a bottle of water, you chat and mingle with each other then move to the dinner table. You take an appropriate amount of time to eat then you move to either a smoking room or you go to a room for hot tea and fresh fruit. Couches and chairs line the walls of the rooms so the center is left open for mingling and a spread of fruit and cheese. So dinners take a long time. After dinner we were taken to watch an Islamic Religious Ceremony. As a Christian, I found it very disturbing, and I don’t remember ever being so thankful for being born in the United States.

We did manage to go shopping in The People’s Suk in the afternoon. Let’s just say it’s like the Anderson Jockey lot on steroids. But it was the first chance we’ve had to be among the Kurdish people and see how they live and work.

It was a good day.

ch

The Anfal Widows

Without getting into too much history, The Anfal Widows group was formed after Saddam Hussein's regime launched chemical warfare against the Iraqi Kurds, targeting mostly men. This left many widows and at the time it was against the law for a woman to remarry. It is no longer against the law but the majority of these women have never remarried.

First we all watched a documentary of the chemical attacks and some of the widows were openly upset. Some cried, some covered their eyes and couldn't watch. One sweet lady just looked down through the entire documentary, wringing her hands. They estimate that over 182,000 people were killed during the campaign.

The Widows came to show their appreciation and thanks to the Gold Star Moms. Even after 22 years, the pain registers on the faces of these women like it happened yesterday. I have never witnessed "thanks" expressed like this.

ch

The PUK

After the emotion of arriving in Iraq, the rest of the day was spent in meetings with local and regional government officials.

Several police escorts arrived to take us to the political offices of the PUK. The PUK is the political party currently ruling the Kurdistan region. Party Speaker Mala Baxtiar greeted each Gold Star mom individually, and then we were ushered into a very official looking conference room.

Through a translator, Speaker Baxtiar welcomed the Gold Star Moms and thanked them for the sacrifices of their children. There were also many Iraqi women in attendance, all who had suffered significant losses under Saddam’s rule. Several of the Gold Star Moms and the Iraqi women were given an opportunity to speak. The Iraqi people, especially here in Kurdistan, are so grateful for U.S. troops and the help they have provided.

After the meeting, we were taken to an elaborate lunch in the political building. The food was actually very good. Speaker Baxtier dined with us and talked with all the moms through an interpreter. After lunch we moved to another room with couches lined against the walls. Ottomans covered with plates of fresh fruits lined the center of the room. We drank very strong hot tea in small glasses, almost like shot glasses. The tea was delicious.

At one point, I happened to be at the front of the line as we were escorted through the building. A young Iraqi woman was walking with me. She spoke just enough English for me to understand that her mother, father and brother had been killed by Saddam's people. Someone explained later that’s how Saddam worked; he would leave one person alive to be a witness to his cruelty.

After lunch we finally got to rest, then had dinner with the Mayor, Police Chief and other local officials. More thank you’s and good food. Then finally more rest.

ch

Finally in Iraq

We are finally in Iraq. So much has happened since I had access to my computer, I hope I can get it all in.

Not much sleep last night, up early enduring pretty serious security checks in Amman before boarding the plane to Iraq. They don't play. You could feel the collective sigh of relief once we were all actually on the plane.

A while into the flight, the pilot made the announcement that we would be entering Iraqi air space in four minutes. Several of the mothers were suddenly very emotional. Across the aisle from me, Ann pulled out a picture of her daughter and held it tight as we came into Iraq. Then she was holding hands with other mothers, some kissing pictures of their children, some just quietly crying. Toughest moment yet for the moms. And for the photographer.

ch

Paris

We are now in the airport in Paris waiting to depart to Jordan. I actually slept well on the overnight to Paris. My favorite thing about traveling is the people that you meet along the way. My seat neighbor on the flight from Atlanta was a young comedy writer and actress from L.A. headed to Paris on a mother/daughter vacation. Cool. Good luck in your career, Kate.

The closer we get to Iraq, the more emotional it becomes for the mothers. Earlier I noticed one of the moms being comforted by another in the airport. They are all really concerned about each other.

It’s been interesting to watch the reaction of other travelers as they hear about this group and why we are traveling. Southern accents tend to attract attention, so we are getting asked a lot about where we are from and where we are going. As other travelers hear and understand the story they are amazed. Some actually tear up. Almost always, you find them patting, hugging or thanking one of the mothers for the service of their children, and expressing condolences for their loss.

ch

Security and Bagels

We met with our security detail in Atlanta. Judging by looks alone…we are pretty secure! It was a little unnerving to get their instructions on what would happen if we were in the area of an “event” and they needed to move us quickly. We were also briefed on greetings, when to nod a greeting or when to shake someone’s hand. No one expects any problems during this trip but it’s their job to make sure we are safe and that’s what they intend to do. And trust me, they take that job very seriously.

Seat 11A. My seat from Atlanta to Paris is 11A. Which on this airbus is in the second row of coach. From here I have a perfect view of how the folks in first class travel. Especially the Frenchman sitting in row 8C, he’s in my direct line of sight. I don’t know if I have ever been so aware of “coveting” anything before, but this morning I coveted his nice, hot, in a regular coffee cup, cup of coffee, and his bagel with cream cheese. I think I’m over it now, I was finally served my tiny Styrofoam cup of coffee and banana and I’m trying not to look toward 8C for the duration of this flight. Enjoy your coffee Mr. Frenchman.

In seats 10A and 10B are two of the Gold Star mom’s from Utah. 10B is also a Blue Star mom. Her oldest son was killed in Iraq and her youngest son is deploying to Afghanistan on Saturday. She’s on her way to Iraq. I think I would be a basket case if I were in her shoes.

ch

On our way

So we are finally on the way and so far so good. Well, except the issue with the internet. Ann and I just spent an hour looking for a place to get free access. Mission accomplished and Ann is blogging away and posting to GreenvilleOnline.com. You can follow along there as well.

At this point, my traveling companions include Ann Hicks who is freelance journalist covering the trip for The Greenville News. The leaders of the group Joan and Fareed Betros, security detail, the Gold Star Mothers and one Blue Star Mother. At GSP the mothers were presented with gold star lapel pins to wear for the duration of the trip.

I caught my first glimpse of emotion at GSP as one of the mothers, Tammy, pulled a small Bible out of her bag to read a message from her husband. She teared up as she read the sweet note with the reminder to come home safe. Then teared up some more when she explained that he had not bought into this trip 100% because they had lost so much in Iraq already.

There are some pretty brave ladies making this trip. And I expect many more tears to come.

ch

Getting Ready

My bags are packed and I'm ready to go. NOT! Nice song but not at all true. I now have a mental list of what goes in the bags, especially the camera gear, and for me, that's a good start.

If you are taking the time to follow along on this journey, remember I'm a photographer and not a writer. My teacher and writer friends are not allowed to judge. :)

Thanks to those of you who have supported this trip. Monetarily, through prayer and kind words. It means a lot.

Myron, Chandler and Kaitlin (and Kevin) - thanks for supporting my need to use what I do for some greater good. Hopefully this trip will produce more than just photos, hopefully these images will be reminders of how blessed we are as a family and a country.

For the Gold Star Mothers who are seeking healing, I hope this trip brings you peace.